Brian's Wines
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Iris s'envole à travers le ciel 2022 - Les Bories Jefferies
Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir, Cinsault · Languedoc, France · 75cl
Pickup available at 3 Cornmarket Street
Usually ready in 2-4 days
From Joe's vines growing on basalt and limestone scree in Caux. 6 days of whole-bunch maceration, before ageing in fibre tanks over winter on the lees.
A striking, mineral purity is the fabric of this wine, threaded with delicious red fruits, white currants, and bay leaf spice. A crackle of effervescence heightens the sensuous charm of this wine.
The producer
Joe’s introduction to wine came via legendary vigneron Bernard Bellahsen, from whom Joe bought bread at a local market. When the opportunity to take charge of 3 hectares of vines from his father-in-law presented itself, encouragement from Bernard, along with Julien Peyras and Antony Tortul of la Sorga, emboldened Joe to accept.
He went back to study winemaking in Montpellier, and despite the guidance of his well-seasoned mentors, initially worked with an oenologist and made wines to ‘the Languedoc recipe’. Robust, bold, reds with big tannins and high alcohol conformed to the status quo, and whites that received filtration and generous sulfitage. Growing frustrated with his inability to find the unique terroir of Caux in his wines, and endless arguments with the oenologue on his books, Joe began to practice the methods of his early mentors, ceasing debourbage post press, filtration, sulfitage, and, scandalously, began vinifying the reds with carbonic maceration. In the vines, the work is far beyond the requirements of organic, and his treatments in the vines are minimal and preventative rather than responsive.
After 12 years, Joe’s wines have become definitive of the new Languedoc, utterly elegant and vital while retaining the Mediterranean soul and ripe fruit of southern France. They are remarkable wines that detail the breadth of possibilities one can uncover in the Languedoc.
The place
Caux, Languedoc
Grapes: Grenache Gris, Noir, Cinsault
Region: Caux, Languedoc, France
ABV: 13.5%