Proscrito 2020 - La Perdida

Many of Nacho's parcels around Larouco lay abandoned before he restored them to health, hidden among bush or mountain trails. These untrellised vines, planted in the early-mid 20th century, tell us much about the fascinating viticultural history of this rugged, dramatic landscape. Nacho began making wine in Larouco, close to his grandmother's home in Seadur, after she gifted him a parcel of vines just outside the village. That was in 2013. Since then, Nacho left his career as a biologist behind, becoming immersed in his winemaking project and his mission to preserve these old vineyards and varieties by showcasing their quality. In the face of encroaching pressures to conform to market demands and the homogenising prescriptions of industrial farming, Nacho has stood firm, an iconoclast of sorts, and persevered in making thrilling, terroir-driven wines, that tell an almost forgotten story of this region's fascinating history. Many of the sites are dramatic and remote, a quality that often finds an uncanny expression in Nacho's wines.

Nacho farms 5 hectares or so in total, mostly old untrellised vines on granite, slate, and clay between 450 and 650 metres. Farming is organic in practice, with some biodynamic and mycological preparations with nettle, horsetail, and comfrey infusions replacing conventional sprays, and fungal preparations are applied to restore soil biology on parcels that had been left to degrade. He has declined organic certification as the scheme permits some chemical use in the vineyards (certification is also costly). Having spent a month working with Nacho during the 2021 harvest, the rich biodiversity among his vines tells it’s own story.

His cellar in Larouco is as lofi as it gets... Gravity carries the juice from the press to a basement where padilla tinajas, old barrels, and stainless tanks are preferred to finish fermentation and age the wines. Everything rests on its lees through winter and is bottled the following spring without fining or filtration. La Perdida means "the lost." Nacho chose the name for the vineyards themselves, most of which had disappeared into the landscape, forgotten to all but the well-trained eye.

Both the varieties in Proscrito sit outside the Valdeorras DO's permitted variety list, which is where the name(outlaw) comes from. Palomino was planted across Galicia under Franco for high-yield bulk production and Garnacha Tintorera was planted for similar reasons, with its pigmented pulp useful for adding colour to cheap blends. The majority of these vines have been pulled up or left to abandonment. Nacho works with these old plantings, producing small quantities of concentrated fruit the DO has no use for, which is a irony of sorts. The clarete style itself is an old Iberian tradition, distinct from rosé in that the red and white grapes are co-fermented together, just as they grow together.

Grapes: Palomino / Garnacha Tintorera

Region: Larouco, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain

ABV: 12%